UNUSUAL ENCOUNTERS

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‘LIFE IS BETTER WHEN YOU SURF’: I’M NOT SURE IF THIS IS MERELY A RANDOM THOUGHT, OR SAMARA’S OFFICIAL MOTTO.

Journal Extract

5th July: El Dueno, the owner of our camp-site in Samara, tells us he saw lights out in the bay last night. ‘Drug-runners,’ he says, rubbing his naked, fat belly. He points to the reef with the shaft of his rake. ‘But the lights disappeared in the storm’, he adds He thinks the heavy seas and the reef may have got the better of whoever it was out there. Apparently it’s happened before. And then a couple of days later bales of cocaine, followed by a couple of bloated corpses, were washed up on the beach. There’s a glint in his eyes when he tells us this and I realise why he’s been spending so much time leaning on the fence, scanning the surf. Continue reading “UNUSUAL ENCOUNTERS”

LIFE’S A BEACH

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SURF’S UP!

Would you know where to go for a Chinese Wax Job? Have you any idea what you’d have to do to become a Junkyard Dog? And what the heck is so scary about The Men In Grey Suits? Well, for a start you’d have to embrace the surf culture and then you might start to get a handle on their expansive terminology. The surf industry has become a billion dollar business over the past few decades, spreading from the shores of California and Australia, and gaining a global appeal. And Costa Rica is certainly up there amongst the leading surf destinations. Continue reading “LIFE’S A BEACH”

THE LEGEND OF THE QUETZAL

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PLAYA UVA, ON THE CARIBBEAN COAST OF COSTA RICA.

“Wha happin’?”

We cross the border into Costa Rica at Sixaola, on the Caribbean coast. After our experience with Butt-head, the customs officer who slashed and gouged his way through our car at Panama’s Manzanillo port, it is a pleasure to meet this genial fellow sitting behind the customs counter. Unlike Butt-head Mr Genial doesn’t seem to feel the need to equip himself with a pistol, a cosh and a no.1 buzz cut. In fact his biggest concern is not that we might be carrying 100 kilos of prime coke, but how he should describe our vehicle in the paperwork he’s about to produce. Continue reading “THE LEGEND OF THE QUETZAL”